I’m a big proponent of letting people hand embroider in a way that works for them. I don’t believe in sending the embroidery police after people who don’t have “perfect” stitches and telling them all of the things they are doing wrong. All of us are learning and are at different points in our stitching journeys. Discovering new methods, new techniques, new tips and new uses for our stitches is part of that journey (and part of the fun!) Mistakes and imperfections can lead to wonderful creative discoveries, so embrace the mess and don’t sweat it if your stitches aren’t perfect by someone else’s standard. If you are enjoying what you do, then that’s enough.
Sometimes as people are on their embroidery journeys, they ask me how they can stitch more neatly. This article is my attempt to answer that question based on what I’ve learned in my own stitching, rather than what I think is “good embroidery” and “the way you have to do things”.
If you’ve had some trouble with your embroidery stitches, or this is an area where you want to grow, read on for some simple tips!
Look for thread stragglers, tangles and knots.
One of the biggest obstacles to creating neat stitches is thread that is misbehaving. This is especially true with stranded floss because it’s not uncommon for one strand to get stuck during stitching and end up shorter than the rest. While it might be impossible to completely eliminate it, keep an eye out for a strand that gets stuck. Similarly, check the back of your work regularly for tangles and knots in your thread that can inadvertently shorten the length of thread you’re working with and make a mess of stitches. Periodically let your needle and thread dangle from your work to untwist itself and minimize tangles.
Stitch with a shorter length of thread.
Stitching with a comfortable length of thread also reduces tangles and knots. When cutting a length of thread for stitching, the guideline I use is that it should be no longer than my arm when extended (from wrist to armpit). Threads of this length will enable you to stitch without going beyond your natural reach. Of course there are some exceptions to this “rule”, for example certain stitches need a long continuous piece of thread for woven techniques. Other threads which are more delicate (such as silk, linen or metallics) do better with a shorter length of thread to minimize breakage. See what is most comfortable for you.
Keep your stitches small and uniform.
Generally speaking, it’s easier for longer stitches to get bumps or twists in them than shorter stitches. Consider a satin stitch covering a large area of fabric compared to a satin stitch covering a small area. The bigger the stitches, the more difficult it is to keep them tidy. If you prefer, stick to smaller/shorter stitches for a cleaner look. Creating uniform stitches that are all about the same size will also give the impression of “neater” embroidery.
Use the right needle.
Using the right needle for your thread will save you tangles, knots and the frustration of fighting with your thread. This is especially true for a needle that’s too small for your thread. Stitching this way will mean that you have to work extra hard to get your needle and thread through your fabric, especially on something with a tight weave, like cotton. Consequently the needle’s eye can cause fraying in the thread and lead to breakages as you stitch, and you could easily end up stabbing yourself (yes, I’ve been there!) On the other hand, using a needle that’s too large can cause your thread to keep falling out of your needle, or your needle can create too large of a hole in the fabric and pull your thread right through it (as in the case of knot stitches).
Keep your fabric taut.
When fabric isn’t stretched taut as you stitch, there’s a greater chance for the fabric to pucker. This pinching can create wrinkles or folds in your fabric that can’t be eliminated by ironing. Keep your fabric as taut as possible in an embroidery hoop or frame when stitching. As you stitch, your fabric will probably need to be tightened so it stays taut. Don’t neglect this step if you want nice smooth fabric in your finished needlework.
Maintain thread tension.
When stitching, try to keep a firm but gentle tension on your thread. If you pull too hard when you’re stitching, you’ll pucker the fabric. But if you don’t pull hard enough, your thread will hang loose and look unruly.
Know when to H.A.L.T.
You may be familiar with the acronym H.A.L.T. as a way to monitor your state of physical and mental well-being. I’ve changed the words a bit for our purposes, but the same idea holds true. Sometimes it’s just not a good time to embroider, and doing so will jeopardize the quality of your work. I’ve learned to halt my stitching when I am:
H - Hurried - Hand embroidery is by nature slow - that’s part of the beauty of the craft. Approaching your project with the mindset that you are relaxing, rather than checking an item off of your to-do list will create a much more pleasant stitching experience. And you’ll be happier with your stitching in the end.
A - Annoyed/Angry - Stitching when you’re frustrated is likely to result in you taking your anger out on your project. Speaking from experience, this will lead to tangled threads, torn out stitches…and possibly ripped fabric… 😬
L - Lost in Thought - While stitching can absolutely be a mindful and meditative craft, zoning out completely while you stitch, or stitching while distracted could result in missed stitches or other mistakes that you don’t recognize until later.
T - Tired - If your eyes are bugging out and you aren’t feeling alert enough to focus on your work, save stitching for another time!
Keep at it!
Finally, like anything, the more you practice, the more you’ll grow in your skills. The same is true for embroidery. You’ll likely find that your stitches will get neater over time simply because you have more experience!
You may stumble across other strategies that are helpful for keeping stitches neat, and I’d love to hear them below! Remember that these are just suggestions and ultimately you need to do what works for you and helps embroidery be most enjoyable for you. Happy stitching!